Tuesday 19 May 2015

Hockney Joiners

Here are my Hockney Joiners. To make these joiners, we had to set our cameras up so we're either close to our subject or by zooming in. We also had to be aware of image distortion if we used a wide angled lens. This will make it hard to join up. I think it wasn't too hard but it was quite challenging to make sure we capture the shots we'll need to join up later. To reduce that risk, I ended up taking lots of shots even if it was the same area so I knew they'd overlap. We also had to capture the images on manual mode so we have a consistent exposure. 



This is the first hockney joiner I made on Photoshop. It worked to a certain extent where you can see quite a range of the building and surrounding. This joiner gave me a taste of how it's created and I felt I could go ahead and create more on Photoshop because the technique was simple to do. I think my first attempt wasn't too bad and I managed to recreate the building which was my main subject. If I was to improve this, I'd add more sky in the background to give the image more dynamic.



This is another example of a smaller joiner. You can see how the exposures aren't exactly the same and the subject selection was pretty small. The main focus for this joiner was to make the text not link completely so it looks like a glitch. I think my main focus towards the image has worked but the joiner itself isn't up to scratch. I think most of the images has worked except the bottom two; this was due to the lighting getting brighter and the exposure messing up on manual so I had to resort changing it to automatic. 




This was my worst example because of the exposure. It was taken around 3pm and the weather and lighting kept changing constantly. The building was actually under a lot of shadow and sometimes the sun would shine on it making it lighter. If you look at the actual image in the corner, you can see what I mean when I say it's under a shadow and the blue sky is behind it. But then when the sky goes grey, it would make the building more darker. I tried taking it on manual but it wouldn't work because it was also getting dark and the camera wasn't the best at adjusting to the scene. But this was a trial and error for me.




Here's another example I've made. It isn't too bad, just had too many pictures to put together. Therefore it went slightly out of hand on the top right side. I think the exposure of the sky changed on one side because it was more bright on that road because the sunlight was from that direction. It does have a small subject matter and I didn't include too much of the surroundings because I was just focusing on the building.


Best Joiners



This is my favourite joiner. I am very selective with picking my best ones and this was definitely one. The exposure is consistent and the subject worked well for a joiner. I made this joiner using my camera so I had better control using manual mode. Referring back to the previous projects, I was making this joiner in a cubism way. I wasn't intending to join up the images perfectly because I wanted it to have some depth in this creative third dimensional way. I like how all the images overlay nicely and there's no gaps in between. The shape is also very broad and I've included more of the surroundings. I like how there's one main water splash that comes up in these multiple shots taken to join up.

Panoramic Style
Here's what it looks like when I crop the image, giving it this panoramic look. You can see how it does have a lot more depth and the whole cubism element kicks in.



Here's the final example I've selected for my best joiners. This is also made with my camera with manual mode for the correct exposure. I've selected this sculpture as my subject with a cubism approach like previously. I like how it's in the centre of the joiner and the surroundings are almost 360' with the old building in the back. I like how the back is also looking oval so it looks curved as I've overlay the images together.


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